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On this page, we present essays, articles, and commentary relating to the Museum of the City’s interests.  We encourage submissions by planners, scholars, students, and others who are writing about urban planning, history, and design. Please contact Chet Orloff, President, Museum of the City, 503.223.5932 or click here to email.

           tapestry by
Judith Poxson Fawkes

A vision proposed for Portland, Oregon, by Chet Orloff, Museum of the City, 2007

Portland, Oregon, 2030
“The Natural City”
 

Statement of the Vision

With the adjoining landscape and through incredible investments in people and infrastructure, Portlanders have created the “City of Nature,” recognized worldwide as “Portland, The Natural City.”  

Defining Practices of Portland, 2030

Portland’s education, transportation, industrial, food, neighborhood-redevelopment, and planning systems have taken it far beyond other metropolitan regions in sustainability and its link to nature.  There is no disconnect, no separation, from the natural world surrounding Portland.  This city is the world’s leader in the use, design, and manufacture of materials and practices that support the conservation and reuse of resources and the renovation of the built environment.  In order to reach this position, the city’s residents committed themselves to (1) include every willing citizen in achieving their city’s ambitions and (2) invested in the economic, educational, and infrastructural bases upon which their vision has been achieved.  Great partnerships among the private and public sectors set the annually achievable goals and managed the progress toward becoming the world’s “Natural City.”

Components of the Vision

Attaining the position as the world’s “the natural city  has necessitated—over the past 23 years—Portland’s creating a(n):

1.  Educational system of the first rank, training students of all ages in design, science and technology, economics, urban redevelopment, and participatory governance;
2.  Transportation system built around public transit that reaches into all parts of the larger region, connecting residents to work, home, and recreation;
3.  Permanent food system dependent upon farms, ranches, and markets within 100 miles of the region;
4.  Building codes and practices resulting in public and private structures that (a) return power to the energy grid, (b) recycle water, (c) support regional suppliers and contractors, and (d) surpass all LEED standards of the early 21st century;
5.  Urban design and planning systems that have raised metropolitan Portland not only to permanent rank as the world’s most livable city, but also the most healthy and attractive city in terms of structural redevelopment;
6.  Industrial base (professions and facilities) that leads the nation in the design and manufacture of products supporting (a) energy creation and conservation; (b) recycling; (c) food growing, distribution, and preparation; and (d) transportation;
7.  Focused redevelopment of long-neglected neighborhoods that have become widely studied exemplars for the city’s overarching vision.

Achieving the seven components of Portland’s 2030 vision required the willingness of thousands of citizens—encompassing the full diversity of the region’s growing population—to contribute (to the extent possible) their time, energy, money, ideas, and intelligence.  They have been led in this vision by individual and corporate citizens; the mayor, commissioners, and city employees; and regional partners.



 

 “If  Zealously  Promoted  by  All...”

By Chet Orloff, Portland Parks Board

Colonel Hawkins has now started on a far-reaching scheme, which, if zealously promoted by all, will, within a few years, give Portland the most beautiful park in the world.  (Oregonian, 1902)

            In the fall of 1843, on their way upriver from Fort Vancouver to Oregon City, Asa Lovejoy and William Overton climbed out of their canoe at a spot called “the clearing.”  For these two travelers, “the clearing” that autumn day may have been a place to pause from paddling, to take lunch or, necessarily, a rest stop (there being certain things one can’t do from a canoe).  Whatever their reasons for stopping, before they pushed off again they made Portland’s first business decision.  They decided to found a town.

Even as they contemplated the effect of human hands building on their future real estate, they must have been struck that the hand of nature had already touched this part of the river.  Shaped by volcanoes and floods, edged by forests, lined with rivers, the new town was bounded by greens and blues.  Its natural beauty, along with its economic potential, drew settlers and, in the next decade, Portland grew quickly.  The nicknames the city attracted in its first half-century–“Eden,” “the City of Roses”–marked its park-like nature.  Even the derisive epithets that still stick to the city–“Stumptown” and “Puddle City”–refer to Portland’s natural icons, trees and rain.  Nature’s encompassing presence in Portland has endured.

            When we consider the nature of urban America since 1851, the year of Portland’s incorporation, we must consider the supporting role parks have played in sustaining the health of the nation’s cities.  When cities were blamed by early social workers for crowding and sickening their residents, parks were seen by their planners as refuges of health and rejuvenation.  Parks counted as economic assets because they raised property values and attracted development.  Parks mixed populations, often to good effect.  Since that decade 160 years ago, cities have incorporated parks into their plans for physical recreation and psychological refreshment, urban aesthetics, landscape preservation, and economic growth.  Portland’s own park history has closely followed–and most recently led–the evolution of American parks and their relationship to the design of cities.  While this local history has, perhaps, been understood by Portland park advocates, has only very recently begun to be documented and analyzed.  (Abbott, Fadely, Houck, Howe)

The history of parks and greenspaces in general has been divided by others into various periods.  Perhaps most noted is Cranz’s four eras of park usage: the Pleasure Ground (1850-1900), Reform Park (1900-1930), Recreation Facility (1930-1965), the Open-Space System (1965-).  (Cranz, 3-154)  I have organized the following essay around what I consider Portland’s own three distinct park periods: “Creation: The Pleasure Grounds and the City Beautiful”(1843-1910), “Recreation: Jungle Gym and Jane” (1910-65), and “Refuge: Open and Greenspaces” (1965-the present).  Woven through these layers of time is an enduring characteristic of Portland’s park history: the leadership of private citizens in the creation and maintenance of its parks, a leadership sustained today by a 150-year tradition of volunteerism, public involvement, and perseverance.

What has inspired the people of Portland to put such personal time and effort into their parks?  Since their city’s founding, Portlanders have believed that their city is, itself, a kind of park – in its setting and access to nature, its open spaces and natural acreage. In defining their sense of place and their sense of self, Portlanders rely as much on their natural setting and parks as on their relatively short history and their distinct and widely recognized architectural and urban-design heritage.

Creation: The Pleasure Grounds and the City Beautiful (1843-1910)

            Early Portlanders fully appreciated the place they had chosen for their town: a place bounded by rivers, surrounded by green hills, lying between ocean and mountains, warmed and bathed by a temperate climate, made habitable by the bounty of its nearby fields.  The first generations of settlers said it was imbued with moral, spiritual, and physical qualities that nurtured industry, sensitivity, and refinement – values necessary for a civilized and productive community.  It was a belief that was in harmony with the romantic philosophy espoused by an increasingly influential number of American artists and writers in the east. Portlanders wanted to create a city reflective of both an urban high culture and a rural hardiness.

While Portlanders were preparing their city for its future physical growth, a New York farmer was preparing himself for his future intellectual growth by studying the work of the world’s leading architects of gardens.  During Portland’s first decade, the mid-1840s to the early 1850s, Frederick Law Olmsted began advocating parks as tools for social reform, physical refreshment, cultural refinement, intellectual improvement, and spiritual uplift.  Onto the shoulders of America’s new parks were placed substantial expectations. Elemental to his vision for parks–soon realized in New York’s Central Park and others nationwide–were access to nature and wilderness, and the role that parks–his “wildernesses in the city”–could play in shaping persons as well as cities.  In Olmsted’s mind, the wilderness experience–even in a park setting–imposed itself on nearly all the senses, capturing most of one’s attention.  As a park designer and social philosopher, he saw individuals taking an active part in their environment, immersing themselves in all its physical details. This experience, Olmsted believed, could lead to deeper levels of personal understanding, resulting he and other reformers believed, in improved social behavior among the rougher urban classes. (Rybzynski, Fadely, 18)  Olmsted, his partners, and their colleagues in the new profession of landscape architecture led dozens of communities through exercises in park and town planning, advocating the benefits of nature within cities.                                                                                                                                           

While Olmsted traveled the country persuading city administrators and civic leaders to plan ahead by adding parks to their already-built and increasingly crowded cities, early Portlanders were giving land for parks in a city they could only envision, not yet built and not yet crowded.  Among the notable donations were James Terwilliger’s land claim, William Chapman’s and John Couch’s additional park blocks, and Ben Holladay’s eastside block.  In 1852, a year after incorporation, Portland accepted a dedication from pioneer town developer Daniel Lownsdale of a row of narrow blocks west of town.  Lownsdale, whose native Louisville had a similar row of “park” blocks, may have intended the blocks to serve as both a promenade and, possibly, a fire break for the wooded hills above the new townsite.  (Reps, Forgotten Frontier, 42-7)  The gift was never finalized by the city council, however, giving rise to a tortuous two-decade long legal fight between the heirs and the city. Six of these central park blocks were lost to development because the city council was unwilling to purchase the blocks from the heirs.   The remaining 18 blocks today form a tree-lined spine of the city.  (MacColl, Merchants)  In 1871 the Portland City Council purchased 40 acres of parkland in the hills a mile west of town.  Named “City Park,” it was an ambitious achievement for a community of 8,293 inhabitants.  For most of Portland’s citizens it may also have been a dubious one, as the new park, high above the city, was initially inaccessible by graded road or streetcar.  (Expanded more than 15-fold over the years and renamed Washington Park, the park today has a world-class zoo, an international rose test garden, Japanese and Shakespeare gardens, a green amphitheater, ball fields and tennis courts, Hoyt Arboretum, the Portland Children’s Museum, the World Forestry Institute, several miles of trails, a small passenger train, and two elegant reservoirs.)

In the late 19th century, City Park offered visitors grand views of the “emerald compass” encircling the city, interior views within the park itself, and a sense closeness to nature, removed from the clang and cluster of the city below.  It was a “pleasure ground” in the spirit of 19th-century cemeteries and parks.  Yet, even with this large park, Lownsdale’s Park Blocks, a handful of neighborhood parks, and the surrounding fields and forests, three men in particular believed that the city could do better in providing its citizens access to nature.

Even as he managed the affairs of Portland’s Unitarian Church and the needs of a growing family, the Reverend Thomas Lamb Eliot made time to help found and lead the local school district, the Multnomah County Library, the Portland Art Museum, the Oregon Humane Society, the Boys and Girls Aid Society, Reed College, and other vital institutions.  While others have held more power, no one in Portland’s 150-year history has matched Eliot’s vision, influence, and leadership.  In him, Portland’s parks had one of its three greatest advocates.  A recently retired banker, Lester Leander Hawkins–Colonel L.L. Hawkins to Eliot and his many other friends–was an avid outdoorsman and Portland’s unofficial host, driving his large tallyho carriage “Jupiter” around town while giving tours to visiting dignitaries and residents alike.  Architect Ion Lewis had arrived from Boston in 1889, having worked for the noted firm of Peabody and Stearns.  He and William Macy Whidden established a highly regarded partnership that produced some of Portland’s most distinctive architecture of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. (Wilbur; Hawkins and Willingham, 184)

As the century came to a close, Eliot, Hawkins, and Lewis lobbied the state for legislation requiring that any city with 3,000 or more people establish a park commission.  Referred to Oregon voters, the referendum passed in 1900 and the Portland City Council quickly established its own Portland Board of Park Commissioners.  Even as they routinely placed parks on the city council’s agenda, the new commissioners–Eliot, Hawkins, Lewis, J.D. Meyer, the mayor, and the city auditor–worried that parks were not receiving the attention and enthusiasm they had expected as they tried to plan for the future.  They determined they needed the kind of authoritative push that only outside, “expert” help could confer.

While Eliot and his fellow commissioners built their park board, a group of leading merchants, manufacturers, and bankers began in 1902 making even bigger plans for Portland: its own world’s fair to celebrate the 1905 centennial of the Lewis and Clark expedition to the mouth of the Columbia River.  The “Lewis and Clark Centennial and American Pacific Exposition and Oriental Fair” would be a Portland extravaganza that would, its directors confidently predicted, propel the city and region into the new century with a boldness equal to the demands and competition of the emerging American economy.  Eliot and his colleagues had neatly married their own needs for a park planner to the fair board’s desire to obtain the services of a fair planner.  Eliot went east looking for a park-planning firm with experience in designing world’s fair grounds, like that created in Chicago by Daniel Burnham, Charles McKim, and Frederick Law Olmsted.  (Abbott, The Great Extravaganza, MacColl, Merchants)

While Oregonians pondered parks and fair grounds, America’s planners, architects, and designers–with the Olmsted family and partners at the forefront–organized themselves professionally and institutionalized a design ethic of beautifying cities.  The movement’s objective was to transform American cities–darkened by decades of industrialization and poor, if any, planning–into beautiful as well as utilitarian places.  “Beautility” was their catch phrase.  Portland’s business and civic leaders embraced the principles of City Beautiful–beauty, utility, recreation, urban design, community pride–recognizing that they were precisely what the city needed to develop its economy, shake the town out of its 19th-century conservatism, take its mind off the pervasive reminders of vice, and keep a step ahead of Seattle, its rival to the north.  (Guzowski, 21-32)

Fully appreciative of the Olmsted philosophy toward park design, Eliot ultimately went  to Brookline, Massachusetts, to negotiate for the services of America’s “cutting edge” landscape-architecture firm whose principals—Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., and step-brother John Charles Olmsted—were also key figures in the City Beautiful movement.  Eliot had help raise the $10,000–half for a park plan, half for laying out the fairgrounds–believed needed to purchase the Olmsteds’ expertise.  John Charles agreed to come to Portland.  (Lutino, 2-12; MacColl, Merchants, 269)

Arriving in early April 1903, Olmsted immediately went to work on the design for the fair grounds.  He then turned his attention to analyzing Portland’s terrain, park inventory, real-estate prospects for future parkland, and park personnel.  Hawkins took Lewis and Olmsted for tours by carriage while the latter took copious notes of all he saw on five-inch index cards and snapped hundreds of photographs of the Portland landscape.  He then spent his evenings at the Portland Hotel writing up his notes in longhand, which were then typed by hotel stenographers. (Guzowski, 43)   Predicting a recurring problem that would haunt the Portland system he had planned, he wrote his wife on April 29th, “I have enjoyed my park reconnaissance very much as the landscape is fine and the possibilities for parks, as far as land is concerned, are excellent.  But I fear the money will be deficient.” (Olmsted, Correspondence)

Strategic, visionary planning was at the heart of the Olmsted Report of 1903.  Olmsted wanted Portlanders to look far into the future–50 years or more–especially when it came to purchasing land while it was still within reach of the city’s means. Typical of Olmsted plans, it was comprehensive, including advice on land acquisition, the qualities of good parks and park systems, parkways and boulevards, park governance, and administration.  

Olmsted outlined a “comprehensive system of parks and parkways for Portland.”  It began with a large forest reservation between Riverview Cemetery and the southern suburb of Lake Oswego, partially achieved today with Tryon Creek State Park.  An informal “picturesque” parkway would run from Riverview Cemetery along the eastern foot of the West Hills, connecting the downtown park squares, Washington Park, and passing by Macleay Park up to what is now Forest Park. Terwilliger Boulevard today is part of this proposed city-length parkway as are Skyline Boulevard above and Leif Erikson Drive through Forest Park.  On the river itself, at the south end of town, he suggested the City acquire Ross Island for park purposes.  East of the river, he proposed a river bluff parkway from Sellwood to the current site of the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry.  McLoughlin Boulevard is a partial realization of Olmsted’s planned road.  Another parkway would run north approximately from N.E. Broadway along the river bluff above the rail yards and Mocks Bottom to the University of Portland.  A great meadow park in the Columbia Sloughs, just west of where Portland International Airport now sits, would preserve the bottom land scenery near the river.  He then proposed running a series of boulevards (distinguished from parkways by their more formal improvements) from Sellwood Park to Ladds Addition, out to Mt. Tabor Park and then north, up to Columbia Slough Park and back over to the proposed parkway on the bluff above Swan Island, which he also recommended for inclusion in the park system.  Like Boston’s Emerald Necklace, designed by his stepfather Frederick Law Olmsted, John Olmsted’s proposed park system–elongated and connected–would provide a greenbelt nearly across and around the city.  He left it to the people of Portland, and their park board, staff, and city council, to make the plan real.  (Olmsted, Report)

With the city’s leadership focused on the Lewis and Clark Exposition and its prospects for post-fair economic growth, with L.L. Hawkins’ death and Rev. Eliot’s resignation from the Parks Board, and with Portlanders’ resistance to providing public funding for land acquisition, there was less will and little way for Olmsted’s plan to proceed.  While parks commissioners Hawkins and Lewis had expressed total support for the plan in a 1904 Oregonian article titled tentatively “Is Portland Ready for a Park System,” Mayor George Williams probably represented the sober reality that the plan faced: “While we must all agree that an elaborate system of parks and boulevards such as he has planned would greatly enhance the beauty and attractiveness of the city, we must cut our garment by our cloth and cannot afford such an outlay.” (Oregonian, 44)  Perhaps the greatest “lost opportunity” was the Lewis and Clark fairground itself.  Olmsted had wanted to see this area become a park but even before he arrived it had been sold for future development and then leased back for the fair’s temporary use. 

Olmsted himself may have been discouraged by the City’s reluctance to proceed, but steady progress was made over the succeeding decades, at Portland’s own deliberate pace.

Recreation: Jungle Gym and Jane (1910-65)

With the exception of a new playground in the North Park Blocks, in the first four years after Olmsted’s first visit, Portlanders built homes, not parks.  Olmsted himself returned several times to consult on private landscaping projects, often commenting on the progress–or lack thereof--of his plan.  While excitement over the fair died down, the city’s business affairs and housing starts came to life.  Portland grew by as much as 50% in the decade after the Exposition.  (Abbott, The Great Extravaganza)  The Olmsted Report initially languished, annually buried deeper and deeper under subsequent Park Board reports.  In an apparent effort to inject life into Olmsted’s plans, The Oregonian published occasional articles on the need for more parks and improved park services.  The February 24, 1908, issue discussed the particular need for an able parks administrator.  The newspaper argued that the kind of park improvements described in the 1903 Olmsted Report required a skilled superintendent with wide experience in American and European park systems.  “We must have this man,” the paper argued, “if Portland is to keep pace with the city’s growth and if that system is to be a worthy expression of the city’s taste and liberality, and of this generation’s forethought for the next.”  Waiting in the wings, already chosen by Olmsted if not yet the City Council, was “this man.”

While ably managed over the preceding four years, the Portland Park department had not found a superintendent equal to Olmsted’s vision.  Two days after The Oregonian article, however, the City Council hired former apprentice, Emanuel L. Mische, already twice recommended by Olmsted.  Following formal training at the Missouri Botanical Garden, Boston’s Arnold Arboretum, and Kew Garden, Mische had spent eight years working as a horticulturist and designer for the Olmsteds.  Hired as Portland’s fourth park superintendent, Mische spent much of his first year, 1908, negotiating for land on Terwilliger Boulevard and Mt. Tabor.  In order to gain some control over public spaces, Mische recommended that he be given authority for the design and placement of fountains, monuments, statuary, sculpture, and architectural works.  Already, overall design matters related to street widening, grades, street trees, subdivisions, and construction fell under the parks department’s authority.

With the Olmsted Plan’s foci on connecting urban dwellers with nature and increasing interest in more playgrounds and exercise programs, Emanuel Mische found himself charged by his board and the City Council with balancing the diverse recreational needs of Portland citizens.  During the six years (1908-14) of his superintendency, Mische began to turn Olmsted’s descriptive vision into landscapes and plantings.  He also initiated efforts to build the recreational infrastructure of playgrounds and athletic, cultural, and educational programs that would be the theme for Portland’s park growth.  In spite of his short tenure, Mische may be credited with laying the foundation for the balanced and integrated park system that Portland has today.  (Guzowski, 110) 

Mische applied his experience in horticulture to creating intentional designs within parks that previously had been planned with little sense of order or relationship with parks elsewhere in the city.  Acting on Olmsted’s dictum to create a comprehensive plan and “look” for the city’s parks, he put his groundsmen to work transforming the Park Blocks into a showplace for shrubs and flower beds, planting colorful ornamentals and roses, and improving the walkways and benches.  Such formality and color, he deemed, were appropriate to a park that, even in 1908, still edged the city’s downtown core.  On the other hand, he avoided such a formal style in Washington Park, developing instead the more naturalistic look encouraged in Olmsted’s report.  Mische next turned his attention to the new local and neighborhood parks that the city was acquiring in response to increasing requests for parks from neighborhoods.  (The demand for parks would be among the earliest organized efforts by Portland’s neighborhoods).  He followed the advice of his mentor in designing Peninsula, Laurelhurst, Columbia, Sellwood, and Kenilworth parks, filling them with both native species and exotics from the east coast, laying out winding walkways, and creating for the parks’ visitors a sense of separation from the surrounding streets and homes.  In the use of shrubs and landscaping, he was able to accommodate the competing needs of solitary pedestrians and groups of noisy children.  Whether formal or informal in design and details, Olmsted recommended that “[t]o make them as attractive and useful as possible, it is often best to abandon the attempt to secure simple broad landscape effects and to design them with as many interesting features and useful subdivisions as practicable, somewhat as a recreation building is subdivided.”  Formal gardens,  promenades, ball fields, wading and swimming pools, curving walkways, and playgrounds characterized Mische’s new parks.  No provisions were made for carriages or cars that would intrude on visitors’ serenity or play, or jeopardize their safety.  (Guzowski, 111-128)

Olmsted had been particularly taken with the potential for Portland’s three “scenic  reservations”–Washington, Macleay, and Mt. Tabor–parks of 100 acres or more that were large enough for interior views and exterior panoramic vistas.  Mische shared his mentor’s interest.  In Washington Park, he had his men build or rebuild paths and stairways that took advantage of the topography.  They also constructed rustic rails and walls and installed a playground.  He shared Olmsted’s opinion that the wilderness aspect of Macleay built by a real-estate developer to sluice dirt off the hills above northwest Portland Park should be maintained, with as few intrusions as possible; at the same time, recognizing the need for security and fire prevention, he hired two guards to patrol the trails.  He rid the park of hunters, evicted a dairy that was polluting the watershed, and succeeded in removing an unsightly flume.  (Not long before, the mayor himself had hiked into the park with a pickaxe in hand and destroyed part of the flume, built without permit by a real-estate developer to sluice dirt from the west hills to fill nearby Guild’s Lake for a future industrial center.)  In 1909 the Wildwood Trail–early on one of Portland’s most heavily used and popular forest paths–was laid down between Macleay Park and the Forestry Center, the last remaining major building on the grounds of the 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, “A Chronological History,” 6)  Across the city, at Mt. Tabor Park, Mische completed an ambitious design that reforested the west slope, opened vistas toward Mount St. Helens and Mount Hood, and constructed a shelter, bandstand, and comfort station near the summit.  His proposed series of cascades and pools connecting city reservoirs #5 and #6 was never realized, however, due to financial limitations. (Guzowski, 129-137)

Although Mische today is remembered for his horticultural skills and for sensitively responding to what some now describe as “Olmstedian” qualities of urban wilderness, he also gave considerable attention to the needs of children at play and adult athletes.  Portland has always been a city of exercisers.  Almost as soon as they trudged in from the 2,000-mile hike across the Oregon Trail or stumped stiff-legged off the ships that brought them up the Pacific Coast, Portlanders took to the town’s hills and nearby mountains, its rivers, bicycle routes, horse tracks, and walking trails. 

Two years before Mische took up his work of implementing a vision grounded in the City Beautiful movement, Portland had joined other cities in embracing the recreational enthusiasm for yet another growing trend, the Playground Movement.  (Guzowski, 104)  Despite, perhaps because of, the mud, children by the hundreds swarmed into the two North Park blocks in December 1906 to inaugurate Portland’s first playground.  Swings, a climbing rope, sand boxes and see-saws, horizontal, parallel and vaulting bars, and a great slide, gave outlet to young energy.   Boys and girls each had their own area and it was soon deemed necessary to build a fence around the boys’ playground to keep out the men who were setting up boxing matches, betting, and having a generally “pernicious influence.”  Beyond merely strolling though greenswards, Portlanders were discovering new uses for their parks and Mische proved that he could integrate the increasingly diverse users of the city’s forests, picnic and playgrounds, fields, formal gardens, and pools.  With the exception of Macleay Park, all other parks incorporated programs and facilities such as fields, courts, and playgrounds to support organized sports and play.  In 1911, the Parks Board hosted the Field Secretary of the American Playground Association and created a committee to plan “a more satisfactory system of playgrounds” in partnership with the Board of Education, the first major interaction between the schools and the Parks Board.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, “Chronological History,” 5-7)

After 13 years of giving shape, leadership, and support to the creation and maintenance of parks, the Portland Parks Board was dissolved in 1914 when voters elected to establish a commission form of government, which abolished existing city boards, putting their responsibilities under elected city commissioners.  Superintendent Mische then reported to a commissioner of public works.  In his first annual report after the change, Mische complained that the new system lacked a general plan, the lack of which, he believed, would spell failure for the park system.  The following year, he resigned.  With Mische’s departure Portland lost the experience and informed perspective that connected it directly with the guiding principles and inspiration of the ambitious 1903 Olmsted plan.

Without Eliot, without Mische,...and Eliot above all,...Portland would not have achieved a notable recreation system...”  So Portland’s early park years were summed up by Paul Keyser, who replaced Mische as superintendent in 1917.  (Keyser, 4)  In his first year, Keyser, an engineer by training, added golf to the system’s programs.  The first golf course was sited in the southeast neighborhood of Eastmoreland.  Through the 1920s, the new superintendent added two more golf courses and expanded the city’s recreational programs.  The Community House Program began offering gym, dance, handicraft, and home-economics classes.  The program established daycare services for working mothers.  Part of the city zoo was moved from the lower part of Washington Park (Marconi Street) to the current site of the Japanese Garden.  Just below the location of the tennis courts, the parks department established the National Rose Test Garden, “for the scientific testing outdoors of new roses and the cultivation and development in the open of existing varieties.”  The city was given hundreds of varieties of roses from across the United States and Europe for planting in the new garden.  During this decade the park system also received several new sculptures, fulfilling the bureau’s role as the city’s public-arts manager.  Heroic statues of George Washington, Theodore Roosevelt, Abraham Lincoln, Joan of Arc, and the elegant, diminutive “Rebecca at the Well,” were donated to the city and placed in the Park Blocks and eastside plazas on Sandy and Glisan. (Portland Parks and Recreation, “Chronological History,” 11-13)

Like his predecessor, Keyser maintained a balance of establishing recreational programs while preserving and adding greenspaces in the city’s larger parks.  During the mid-1920s, he worried that large tracts of land recommended for purchase by Olmsted and Mische had still not been acquired by the city.  While citizens supported small neighborhood parks, Keyser believed that diminished interest in larger city parks such as Washington and Macleay was due to the automobile, which was now taking growing numbers of Portlanders to open space and forests outside the city.  Even as he enriched Portland’s recreational park programs, Keyser sought to expand the city’s large forest reserves to lure residents back into Portland’s own large parks.  He began efforts to expand Macleay Park along Balch Creek, from a new wildflower garden beneath the Thurman Street Bridge up the creek to the Audubon Society’s planned 40-acre bird sanctuary along Cornell Road.  During the1928 National Forestry Week, with the encouragement of the Chamber of Commerce, the City Council agreed with Keyser that the city should establish an arboretum–a long-held dream of Mische–in Hoyt Park above Washington Park.  Multnomah County deeded the city 145 acres for this purpose.  Not content with these successes, Keyser turned his eyes on even more land in what is now Forest Park, noting prophetically–and paraphrasing Olmsted–that “Portland could easily attain one of the largest and, I daresay, one of the most notable parks in the country containing . . . a forest primeval, trails, viewpoints and glens, not miles away but within our urban borders.”  (Portland Parks and Recreation, Chronological History, 12)

The Depression of the 1930s stalled Keyser’s ambitions, as it did those of park systems in other cities.  During the ensuing economic downturn, Portland’s park bureau relied heavily on federal relief funds, which supported trail construction, built and restored picnic shelters, fire pits, roads, bridges, and stone buildings, and developed playground facilities.  In addition to their construction projects, the newly employed men and women of such New Deal agencies as the Civil Works Administration (CWA), the Civil Conservation Corps (CCC), and the Works Progress Administration (WPA) staffed recreation programs as coaches, teachers, artists, and playground supervisors.  In 1938, Dorthea Lensch was appointed Playground Supervisor to manage the bureau’s recreation division.  Nearly one-half of her staff were federally funded relief workers.  Responding to the realities of the Depression, with adults having more leisure time and children being offered limited activities in schools, Lensch implemented several new recreational and cultural programs, sometimes using school buildings in neighborhoods not served by park community centers.  The bureau offered classes in drama and dance, exercise and bridge, photography, sculpting and painting, nature lore, first aid, archery, badminton, and field hockey.  Lensch endeavored to open the parks to the public during a time of heightened demand for public recreational services, which private agencies were not able to adequately address.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, “Chronological History,” 14-15)

World War II initially resulted in the closure of Portland’s largest parks.   Following the attack on Pearl Harbor, the city closed Washington and Mt. Tabor Parks in fear of sabotage to the reservoirs–Portland’s immediate water supplies–and deferred new construction for the next five years.  The war created challenges for a park bureau not yet recovered from the Depression.  With juvenile delinquency increasing as children were left on their own with parents working for local wartime industries or in the military, the bureau was pushed to expand its recreation programs into schools, community centers, churches, and the new wartime housing projects.  The parks bureau worked with schools and neighborhoods to plant “victory gardens” that provided young Portlanders a productive out-of-school activity as well as fresh summer and fall produce.  Symptomatic of the stress felt in the city as increasing numbers of minorities arrived to work in Portland’s wartime shipyards and factories, baseless complaints about “Asiatics” and African-Americans monopolizing tennis courts and other facilities prompted Superintendent Keyser to issue plans (never implemented) for a community center in Albina to serve ethnic minorities.  Indeed, minorities in Portland bore the brunt of wartime anxiety.  Japanese citizens were forcibly moved from their communities and interned in camps in eastern Oregon and beyond.  African-American laborers were denied access to many kinds of jobs and had to resort to federal action to open union positions for them.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, “Chronological History,” 16)                                              

Throughout the first third of the century, little development took place on the hills northwest of Portland and even less during the succeeding Depression and war years.  It was here that John Olmsted recommended the city establish a “forest park.”  “The investment,” he advised in 1903, “of a comparatively moderate sum in the acquisition of these romantic wooded hillsides for a park or reservation of wild woodland character would yield ample returns in pleasure to taxpayers and to those dependent on them, while to a large part of the poorer classes a visit to these woods would afford more pleasure and satisfaction than a visit to any other sort of park.”  (Olmsted, “Report to Portland Park Board,” 41-42) A group of citizens under the chairmanship of retired forester and Portland Audubon president Thornton T. Munger put action to Olmsted’s eloquence and in November 1946 formed a “Committee of Fifty” to promote the city’s acquisition of the extensively forested hills and ravines above the former site of Guild’s Lake.  The committee began raising money, consciousness, and recruits in an effort to convince the Oregon Legislature to allow counties to transfer to cities for park purposes lands that had come into public ownership due to tax default.  By July 1947 the City Council was able to proceed with plans for Forest Park.  It dedicated 2,000 acres and approved plans to acquire an additional 6,000.  Notwithstanding a fire four years later that burned 80% of Forest Park, the city made further headway toward Olmsted’s “forest reservation” in 1951 when Multnomah County transferred land to the City for the new park and Portland high-school students launched what would become a multi-year reforestation effort by planting 30,000 trees.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, “Chronological History,” 17)

In the two decades following the Depression and the Second World War, the Portland Park Bureau not only multiplied its landholdings several-fold to over 6,000 acres, but enlarged the range of its recreational offerings.  Responding to substantial increases in recreation participation (a 35% increase in 1951 alone), the bureau added community centers; greatly enlarged its volunteer corps (3,500 by 1957); moved and enhanced the zoo (commencing the era of the baby elephant); created trail maintenance, “aquatheater,” and weightlifting programs; and added to its inventory of buildings such historic structures as the rustic Pioneer Church in Sellwood and the elegant Pittock Mansion.  As the city grew with the postwar economy, especially during the 1960s, the park bureau continued to make great strides in providing recreational services, along with the space in which to provide them.  And, inspired by new Governor Tom McCall’s pressure to create a waterfront park where the Willamette River flows through the city, plans and provisions for open space began to command increasing attention from the public, their political leaders, and park officials.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, Chronological History, 18-20)

Refuge:  Open and Greenspaces” (1965-the present)

Portland was conceived in ”the clearing”—an open space—by  the river.  A tradition and inheritance of open space ensued.  Daniel Lownsdale’s initial deeded blocks, Terwilliger Park, and other gifts of land have preserved the open space refuge that the Olmsteds and other early park planners urged growing cities to provide.  Although Portland has had in-fill and density as twin goals over the past two decades, the city has maintained its provisions for “breathing room”  and not become a dense city.  So the vision of Eliot, Hawkins, and their fellow park-system founders; of their planner Olmsted; of his plan’s implementor Mische; and of Paul Keyser has been sustained.

“Open space” has broad meanings.  It encompasses small squares at the heart of the city as well as large spaces at its edge that are not “parks” at all, but greenspaces – wetlands, stream corridors, meadows, forests, and other nearby “wild” places.  When one looks at a map of downtown Portland, a linear north-south pattern of open spaces emerges.  The North and South Park Blocks along Ninth Avenue, the Plaza Blocks on Fourth, and Waterfront Park form green stretches of open space breaking up the grid of buildings on the west side.  The east side’s expansive commercial and retail districts offer less such refuge, with space afforded intermittently by Holladay, Buckman, and Col. Summers Parks and the Eastbank Esplanade.  It is the central business district that presents local and national models of urban open spaces.

The renovation of Portland’s Civic Auditorium was part of an extensive urban-renewal process that occurred in South Portland during the 1960s and 70s.  Even before the Auditorium’s remodeling itself began, a block of open space across the street was proposed for a park.  Angela Danadjieva, a San Francisco architect with Lawrence Halprin’s design firm, created the design for a nearly full-block fountain park.  Dedicated in 1970, the Forecourt Fountain (since renamed in memory of founding Portland Development Commission chair Ira C. Keller) is an abstraction of northwest waterfalls cascading over columnar basalt outcroppings with sculptured terraces and pools.  The waterfalls, ledges, pools, and surrounding stairs, benches, and grass provide space for sitting, wading, and for audience members taking a break from auditorium performances.  The fountain quickly became a landmark park and, with a bit of exuberance, was called by New York Times architectural critic Ada Louise Huxtable “perhaps the greatest open space since the Renaissance.”  (Portland Parks and Recreation, “Open Space Inventory - Urban Parks”) This from a writer who, seeing Portlanders thoughtlessly replacing their historic buildings with surface parking lots, remarked that Portland was a city in the process of destroying itself.

Sixteen blocks to the north, O’Bryant Square began as an attempt in the early 1970s to regain one of the “lost” Park Blocks.  A gift to the city by Mr. and Mrs. William E. Roberts, the square was designed as a hardscape to create an outdoor “brown-bag” performance space with trees creating an enclosure.  Near the center of the square is a bronze fountain in the shape of a rose.  The park opened with concerts but soon became increasingly frequented by members of the homeless community and drug culture.  In 1984, Pioneer Courthouse Square opened and drew potential concert audiences away.  Efforts are now underway to heighten visibility into the park by removing trees, though O’Bryant Square’s ability to succeed as downtown open space may depend upon its possible connection to additional park blocks that may appear as Park Avenue is restructured.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, “Open Space Inventory - Urban Parks,” 9-10)

Portland’s waterfront was covered for nearly a century-and-a-half by wharves, warehouses, retail buildings, and roads.  From the Olmsted Plan of 1903 through several subsequent plans for the downtown, the waterfront was targeted for park space.  Money and civic will, however, were always lacking.  Through much of the 1960s, Portland newscaster, secretary of state, and governor Tom McCall prodded the city to clean up the Willamette River and create a park.  In 1971 a citizens group initiated efforts to remove Harbor Drive, a blanket of concrete that had long separated the city from its river.  With support from Mayor Neil Goldschmidt and the Portland Development Commission in the mid-1970s, Portland architects Wolff, Zimmer, Gunsul, Frasca Partnership developed a master plan for a new park.  With the dedication of Waterfront Park in 1978, Portlanders for the first time gained access to the west bank of the Willamette.  It was an immediate success, but by 2000 popularity had degraded the park, frustrating citizens beneath the crush of high-attendance events (carnivals, concerts, and food festivals).  In 2002 the Parks Bureau initiated a master planning process designed to balance the conflicting demands of diverse users upon the park’s long and narrow landscape.  As had been the case 30 years before, the process elicited substantial public involvement in planning the future of Portland’s “front yard.”  Guided by a citizens advisory committee, the public participated in numerous workshops to envision and debate potential uses and designs.  Architects, landscape architects, and planners provided technical support and advice.  The result was an ambitious vision for Waterfront Park, one that will take many years to finance and achieve.

Six blocks west, on a block that Portlanders have dubbed their community “living room,” citizens have consistently maintained an intense interest and protectiveness for what architect Pietro Belluschi called at its opening in 1984 “one of the best moves Portland ever made.”  Taking the place of a parking lot that had replaced the Portland Hotel (once the city’s most popular meeting space) Pioneer Courthouse Square—immediately adjacent to Pioneer Courthouse—quickly became a year-round, day- and night-long gathering ground.  The Square’s brick pavement—built with bricks sold to raise funds for the project—terra cotta walls, and classical columns are a neighborly reflection of the Square’s surrounding buildings, which date from among the city’s oldest to its newest.  Whimsical sculptures, such as an umbrella-holding man hailing a cab, a “Weather Machine,” a waterfall, space for events and exhibits, a public-transit and city information center, plus a Starbucks coffee shop and Powell’s book store place the Square comfortably into the city’s culture.  Its successful creation, led by Martin, depended on the diverse team he brought together: landscape architect Doug Macy, historian Terence O’Donnell, sculptor Lee Kelly, writer Spencer Gill, and designer/artist Robert Reynolds.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, Open Space Inventory – Urban Parks, 11-12)  Urban observer William Whyte considered Pioneer Square among the nation’s finest programmed open spaces. (Whyte, 152) 

Extending from the Hawthorne to the Steel Bridge, directly across the river from Waterfront Park, the first section of the Eastbank Esplanade was opened in 2001 and illustrates the challenge and successful solution to creating open space in a closed, congested, and cacophonous location.  Tucked between the Interstate 5 freeway and the Willamette River, this narrow, mile-and-a-half-long park includes the longest floating walkway in the country.  The habitat demonstration and riverbank restoration project uses several large "root wads" to provide habitat areas for fish along with bio-engineering techniques employing native vegetation to pre-treat freeway runoff before it enters the river.  The Esplanade connects to the 40-Mile Loop trail, providing a region-wide natural-history interpretive opportunity.  Graphic designers from the landscape architecture firm Mayer/Reed included cultural history in the Esplanade through a series of illustrated and text panels providing information about the river and Portland history.  Four pieces of public art, "The Running Gate," "The Stackstalk,” "The Alluvial Wall," and “The Ghost Ship," were created and installed by RIGGA, a group of local artists working with the support of the Regional Arts and Culture Council’s Percent for Art program.

From an airplane approaching Portland, the landscape shows great contrasts.  Passing over the city, the small squares and larger parks leap out with their colorful manmade plazas and green open space.  Further out, however, one is struck by the sheer volume of land covered by trees and water and open land.  From the airplane passenger’s perspective, the larger cityscape looks not like a patchwork of green but like strips of green connecting metropolitan Portland’s parts into a regional whole.  These are greenspaces that, through good luck and great vision, have (in most cases) been intentionally preserved between and within communities.  As with all things of permanence, the vision took some time to become reality.

In 1903, John Charles Olmsted had discussed with Portlanders his notion of naturalizing the city with large parks connected by parkways, winding a ring of greenspace around and through the city.  “While there are many things,” Olmsted wrote in his 1903 Report to the Portland Park Board, “both small and great, which may contribute to the beauty of a great city, unquestionably one of the greatest is a comprehensive system of parks and parkways.”  (Olmsted, John Charles, “Report of the Park Board,” 1903, 14)  From 1903 into the 1970s, connecting parks and greenspaces, as Olmsted had advised and some Portlanders appreciated, remained an almost unimaginable, even utopian, strategy.  First of all, there was the sheer cost of assembling the land.  Further, with the notable exception of Forest Park, once Portland had established its large early parks it put increasing emphasis on playgrounds and sports fields, and small, highly programmed open spaces in the downtown.  Independent suburban communities in the 1970s and 1980s followed Portland’s lead in their own parks and recreation programs – preserving and connecting greenspaces was not part of local park districts’ agendas.  Then, in 1971, the Columbia Region Association of Governments (CRAG) presented an ambitious scheme for regional open-space planning titled, “Proposals to the Portland-Vancouver Community for a Metropolitan Park and Open Space System.”  Integrating Olmsted’s proposals with urban philosopher Lewis Mumford’s vision for a regional community, the CRAG plan suggested a way to navigate toward a regional, comprehensive park system.  With no public input, the plan stalled for two years until two events took place under the leadership of Governor Tom McCall that would restart the process and provide a new framework for park and open-space planning in Portland and its neighboring communities.

In 1973 the State of Oregon initiated state land-use planning.  The law stipulated that cities were to create urban-growth boundaries and develop comprehensive plans with planning goals relating to the preservation of open spaces; scenic, historic, and natural resources; land resources; and recreational needs.  The following year, the state issued the Willamette River Greenway Plan which directed development away from the River, establishing a minuscule 25-foot greenway setback and requiring protection of natural elements and scenic qualities.  With such state-mandated planning goals, the Portland region acquired the tools to begin building the “comprehensive system” of greenspaces and parks earlier envisioned by John Charles Olmsted.  Using these tools—comprehensive regional planning, locally set land-use goals, an urban-growth boundary—a small number of parks and greenspace advocates, in partnership with local and regional governments, began to realize Olmsted’s larger vision.  Leading this persistent effort were the Audubon Society’s Mike Houck and Barbara Walker, founder of the 40-Mile Loop Land Trust.  With volunteers and staff of Metro and the Portland Parks Bureau, they helped initiate a planning process that, through the 1990s, would result in a regional strategy and framework for parks, greenspaces, and greenways across metropolitan Portland.

As an urban naturalist with the Audubon Society of Portland, Mike Houck encouraged Metro, the Portland area’s regional government, to assume leadership in the regional protection of natural resources and wildlife and, thereby, in compliance with the State of Oregon’s land-use planning Goal 5, which protects natural and historic resources and open spaces.  Working with Metro from 1989 to 1992, he convinced the agency to take the lead in building a “greenfrastructure,” a connected system of natural areas and greenways across the region.  (Howe, 2-4).   Coincident with Houck’s work, Barbara Walker, an articulate and long-time volunteer leader in local parks issues, had been advocating the establishment of the 40-Mile Loop Land Trust, whose goal was to create a trail system around the region.  The concept for such a loop first surfaced in Portland Parks and Recreation Bureau’s 1983 master plan and benefited from the subsequent struggles for the Oaks Bottom Wildlife refuge and the Marquam and Powell Butte nature parks.  “When I first saw Barbara’s slide depicting the Loop,” Houck reported in 1989 to the City Club of Portland, “it was impossible to ignore the striking coincidence of the trail and natural areas that it passes through... It was a marriage of tremendous recreational and wildlife viewing opportunities too good to pass up.  The concept to link these two efforts is also in keeping with the philosophies espoused by Olmsted, Mumford, and the CRAG report.”  (Houck, 5)

Consummating this “marriage” in 1992, Metro adopted a “Metropolitan Greenspaces Master Plan,” aimed at purchasing, managing, and protecting natural resources.  The plan’s vision was “to balance an urban landscape with wildlife habitat in the midst of a flourishing cosmopolitan region.”  Voters were convinced and quickly authorized Metro to acquire, develop, maintain, and operate a system of parks, open space, and recreational facilities of metropolitan concern. (Metro, 84)  In 1994, the same year Multnomah County’s parks division merged with Metro’s greenspaces program creating Metro Regional Parks and Greenspaces, the regional government adopted a 2040 growth concept to guide future decisions about land-use, transportation, urban design, and natural resources.  A year later metropolitan residents further embraced the greenspaces agenda and passed a $135.6 million open-spaces, parks, and streams bond measure.  The funds have allowed Metro to acquire over 8,000 acres of wetlands, riparian areas, forests, and meadows and more than 50 miles of stream and river frontage as well as systematically strengthen its park programs, including school classes, restoration projects, public tours, and other environmental-education activities.  If one combines the metropolitan region’s open-space inventory (parks, greenspaces, and the regional trail system) with individual park districts’ recreation programs, the elements that Olmsted envisioned for Portland 100 years ago are now in place.

In late 1988 Charles Jordan (a former Portland city commissioner) became Director of the Portland Parks Bureau.  Despite property-tax limitation measures and the frustrations of budget cuts throughout much of his 15-year tenure, Jordan started to build on the city’s own 1992 park plan.  The plan was based on a five-year Parks Futures Project that identified $100 million worth of capital improvements to the nearly 100-years old park system.  Ultimately, the 1994 general obligation bond provided $59 million for much-needed improvements in lighting, irrigation, and paths in parks as well as heating, plumbing, and electrical systems in buildings.  Later bond measures provided further capital funding for the bureau.  Throughout the 1990s, while Metro’s regional parks department was adding land as well as establishing its environmental-education offerings, the Portland park bureau focused on improving its capital facilities–building tennis courts and community centers, refurbishing pools, and renovating fields–in addition to offering new classes, clinics, and workshops in athletics and the performing arts.  Parks director Jordan also led the bureau in providing enhanced programs to underserved parts of the community.  As with most municipal park agencies in Oregon by the mid-1990s, Portland’s was increasingly relying on non-profit “friends” groups to raise funds and organize events.  Volunteers remarkably donated 500,000 hours of assistance to park programs and the decade saw increasing collaboration between the parks bureau and the school district through community-school recreational programs.

Following two years of work by many of the same individuals and staff who contributed to Metro’s plans, Portland crafted its own updated park vision.  The “Parks 2020 Vision,” adopted by the City Council in 2001, was an effort to recommit the city to Olmsted’s vision of 1903: more land for parks, a regional approach, able and informed park leadership, increased access to parks by all, well-maintained facilities, and excellent and diverse programs throughout the city.  A Portland Parks Board was re-established to provide public input into park policies, operations, and plans.  And, in recognition of the realities of government funding in 21st-century Oregon, a private park foundation was organized to raise money for land acquisition, operations and maintenance, scholarships, and new facilities.  (Portland Parks and Recreation, 2020 Vision, 2001)

The city of Portland has changed dramatically since Lovejoy landed in “the clearing,” since Lownsdale laid down his park blocks, and since the first generations of Portlanders began to boast of their community’s parklike features: the forest and mountain views, open space, and outdoor activities that have engaged its residents and visitors ever since.  Within 50 years of Portland’s incorporation, John Charles Olmsted gave it a vision for the future based on parks and the city’s unique natural setting.  Notwithstanding the reluctance of early 20th-century Portlanders to provide public dollars to implement Olmsted’s plan, succeeding generations demonstrated their increasing commitment to parks through levies and bonds, participation in parks programs, and volunteer services to build a solid, if not quite “Olmstedian,” system.  From 1993 to 2003, Metro began to buy more land and lay more trails. Today, there are over 700 parks within the metropolitan region–from 18-inch Mill End Park to 4,683-acre Forest Park–and more than 15,000 acres of natural areas with150-plus miles of trails linking together many of these green and open spaces.  Even as demanding a landscape architect as Olmsted might concede that his sometimes-reluctant client has made progress toward his vision.

In the final analysis, of course, it is not the vision of such planners as Olmsted that accomplish the plan, but the catalytic leadership of those like Eliot, Lewis, or Hawkins, like Thornton Munger, Barbara Walker, or Mike Houck; the intelligent work of committed staff; and the countless hours of thousands of volunteers.  Especially over the past 30 years, citizen participation has been basic to the Portland story.  Through parks, citizens have contributed to the development of the region’s overall urban design, helping shape its growth and the vision for its future.  Citizens have also preserved much of their community’s past in parks and greenspaces because that is where much of the region’s natural and cultural history has occurred and continues to reside.  (Fadely, 32)

Olmsted had it right when he opened his report to the Portland Parks Board with an expression of the duty of citizens to their city: “It is becoming more clearly realized,” he wrote, “that every inhabitant owes to his or her city certain duties. . . .  Among them is that of making the city more beautiful to live and work in. [And,] while there are many things which may contribute to the beauty of a great city, one of the greatest is a comprehensive system of parks and parkways.”  Parks and greenspaces are the places where people play, exercise, and learn; find solitude; preserve flora and fauna.  Greenspaces are the places where Portlanders can appreciate nature’s sounds, touch, sights, and smells within the confines of the city – in other words, where they achieve the values espoused in the Olmsted Plan in 1903.  They are places where, in Portland, people have invested much of their civic pride and drawn much of their civic identity.  It is through parks and greenspaces that Portlanders, 100 years after Olmsted’s report, find their place in the natural and human history of their region and, perhaps most deliberately and enthusiastically, express their character as citizens. 

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